Sunday 24 July 2011

Surfs Up

I came across the book LeRoy Grannis, Surf Photography of the 1960's and 1970's at the Taschen bookstore recently and was immediately hooked. I don't swim much along the East Coast since the Atlantic Ocean is usually very cold and I've also seen Jaws. That's probably why I love looking at these old photos of surfing along the California coast and Hawaii.   LeRoy Grannis started photographing surfers at Hermosa Beach in California when his doctor told him that he needed a hobby in 1960.  He was 42 years old at the time and went on to become the best known surf photographers and was also inducted into the International Surfing Hall of Fame.  He died this past February at the age of 93 which is just one more example of the sage advice of Confucius, "choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life."  This  book would make a great gift for any surfer or surf enthusiast but you can also buy prints of LeRoy Grannis photos at M+B Gallery. They would great in any beach house or even a city apartment to remind you to stop and smell the ocean once in while. Aloha!

Greg Noll Surf Team, Sunset Beach, 1966

World Surfing Contest, Ocean Beach, San Diego, 1966

Hermosa Beach, 1963



Henry Ford, 22nd Street, Hermosa Beach, 1963

Malibu Lineup 1967

Kent Layton, Hermosa Beach, 1969



Waimea Bay, 1972


Greg Noll Surf Shop, 1961

Pipeline, 1972

Duke Contest Finalists, 1968

Waimea Bay, 1973


Makaha, Hawaii, 1962

Photos by LeRoy Grannis

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